What to Cook This Weekend

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Good morning. You’re reading this missive on a screen, and you may look at a recipe on another one later, before using a third to watch, say, “Halston” on Netflix after dinner. That’s fine. That’s the way of our world. But as Dorie Greenspan notes in The Times this week, there are still pleasures to be had in physical cookbooks, not the least of which is discovering the notes that you or others have left in them.

“Elegant and delicious,” Dorie wrote about a Simone Beck recipe for gâteau d’Hélène (above), white cake filled and iced with coconut cream and apricot, from Beck’s 1972 cookbook “Simca’s Cuisine.” She penciled that into the book’s margin after making the cake for guests at her son’s first birthday, in 1980. (She baked cookies for the children.)

It’s a very 1970s cake — quite dry in aspect so that it can be brushed with plenty of rum and orange juice, for flavor and keepability — but Dorie made it again last month and said its tenderness, flavor and texture “are completely right for today.”

Maybe you could make that this weekend, then. Beck served it at the end of a meal of eggplant quiche and a salad of mussels, shrimp, peas and saffron rice with a creamy cucumber sauce. Me, I’d go onion quiche and salad Lyonnaise.





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