An Ancient Grain Powers These Chips

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Crisp, rectangular fonio chips, made from a West African heirloom grain, are the latest from Yolélé, a Brooklyn company that makes and sells African foods. There are four iterations: Afro-Funk, made with dawadawa (fermented locust beans) and ginger, are moderately spicy; Greens!, made with moringa and baobab, are tart; ruddy Yassa!, flavored with chile, onion and lime, are at once hot, sour and sweet; and plain sea salt, the lightest, are somewhat fragile. The company was founded by Pierre Thiam, a chef and fonio ambassador, and Philip Teverow, a specialty food expert.

Yolélé Fonio Chips, four bags, one flavor or variety pack, $20, yolele.com.

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